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Getting Around
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The street structure, organised in a grid pattern, makes
Buenos Aires easy to navigate and the best way to explore
the city and take in its character is on foot. The city is
serviced by an efficient, widespread and cheap public
transport system that consists of buses and the subway. The
subway system (subte) is the oldest in South
America and is the easiest and cheapest way to get around,
but although it services most of the city centre, it is not
very extensive beyond. It gets very hot and crowded in
summer especially during rush hours, and closes between 10pm
and 5am.
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The bus network is huge and covers the city, and
although very useful for getting around, the overwhelming
amount of routes makes it confusing for tourists.
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Taxis are everywhere and relatively inexpensive, but
although generally safe, visitors should be aware that there are
fake taxis that pick up tourists and rob them. It is safer to phone
a radio taxi or remise, a fixed-price radio cab booked in advance
that acts like a chauffer-driven car and can be cheaper than taxis
over longer distances. They are more useful than renting a car for
excursions from the city and even for a day’s tour of the suburbs.
Attractions
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Plaza Dorrego: Plaza Dorrego lies in San Telmo, the bohemian
artists’ quarter and the birthplace of tango. The tiny
square is surrounded by elegant houses, now mostly converted
into antique shops and bars whose tables overflow onto the
street. On Sundays the plaza is the setting for the ancient
antique market, the Feria de San Pedro Telmo. Though you are
unlikely to discover any bargains you may find an
interesting souvenir or two. The stallholders pack up their
wares at 5pm and the square becomes the setting for informal
tango dances. This is as popular with the locals as tourists
and even the inexperienced may be tempted to try it out.
There are numerous museums nearby the plaza worth visiting,
including the Museo Histórico Nacional and the Museo de Arte
Moderno.
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Caminito, La Boca:
in
this poor but happy area full of artisans, painters, street
performers, cantinas and open-air tango shows. The neighbourhood was originally settled by Italian immigrants,
most of whom came to work in the docks. Today it is
frequented by crowds of tourists who come to soak up the
atmosphere of Tango. Best to visit on a Sunday.
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Cabildo: Opposite the Casa Rosada on the Plaza de Mayo is
the resplendent former Spanish town hall, the Cabildo, a
fascinating old colonial building fronted by arches that
once encircled the plaza, back during the May Revolution in
1810. The guards outside the building are members of the
revered Regimiento de Patricios, which was formed in 1806.
They still wear their traditional uniforms, designed nearly
200 years ago. The interior houses a small museum, which
displays some interesting architectural relics, religious
icons as well as watercolour paintings by Enrique Pellegrini.
Address: Calle Bolívar 65 Telephone: (011) 4334 1782
Transport: Subte to Plaza de Mayo, Catedral or Bolívar
Opening Time: Wednesday to Friday 11.30am to 6pm, Saturday
and Sunday 2pm to 6pm
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Casa Rosada: One of the world’s most famous balconies juts
out of Argentina’s Presidential Palace, known as the Casa Rosada. The pink building has been the scene of many a
political rally, particularly during the regime of the
notorious and tragic Juan and Eva Peron. The Italian style
building, fronted with palm trees and fountains, was painted
pink when it was converted from a Customs and Post Office
building into the presidential palace. President Sarmiento
decided to appease opposing political parties by merging red
and white into a pink colour scheme for the palace. Today
the building houses a small basement museum displaying some
presidential artefacts. Each evening a small platoon of
mounted grenadiers emerge from the guardhouse to lower the
flag on the Plaza, adding a touch of pomp and ceremony to
the pretty building.
Address: Casa Rosada is situated at the eastern end of the
Plaza de Mayo Opening Time: Guided tours Monday to Friday
11.15am and 2.15pm Admission: Free
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Catedral Metropolitana: Other important buildings around the
Plaza de Mayo include the Neoclassical Catedral
Metropolitana, which houses the tomb of General José de San
Martin, the revered hero who liberated Argentina from the
Spanish. The cathedral was rebuilt and renovated
periodically since the foundation stone was laid in the 16th
century. The current structure was finally completed in the
mid-19th century. The interior has recently been renovated
and the gilded columns, Venetian mosaic floors, and
silver-plated altar are in pristine condition.
Address: Plaza de Mayo Telephone: (11)4 331 2845 Opening
Time: Monday to Friday 8am to 7pm, Saturday 9am to 12.30pm
and 5pm to 7.30pm, Sunday 9am to 2pm and 4pm to 7.30pm; free
guided tours Monday to Friday 1pm, Saturday 11.30am, Sunday
10am
La Boca: La Boca (’the mouth’) is the most colourful
neighbourhood or barrio in Buenos Aires, original home of
football legend Diego Maradonna and the tango. An assortment
of brightly painted low houses made of wood and metal line
the streets, including the famed main street
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La Recoleta Cemetery: An unlikely tourist attraction, La Recoleta Cemetery is well worth visiting to see its
magnificent display of monuments and the ostentatious tombs
of Argentina’s rich and famous. One of the more modest, but
by far the most celebrated, is the grave of Eva Peron. Every
day thousands come to leave flowers at the door of the
Duarte family mausoleum, where she is buried. Forty years on
Evita remains both the most loved and hated figure in
Argentina, but her spirit lives on in La Recoleta.
Address: Calle Junín 1760 Telephone: (011) 4803 1594 Opening
Time: Daily 7am to 5.45pm. Guided tours at 2.30pm on last
Sunday of month (March to December) Admission: Free
Mar del Plata: Two hundred and thirty miles (400km) south of
Buenos Aires, Mar del Plata is by far Argentina’s most
popular beach resort. Around three million local tourists
holiday here every summer, drawn to its busy beaches and
lively entertainment. Visitors can alternate between
spending idle days people-watching on the beach or enjoying
a spot of culture at one of the city’s small galleries.
There is also the bustling port to visit with its numerous
and colourful traditional fishing boats and noisy colony of
sea lions. For a spot of good living, the Mar del Plata has
some excellent bars and restaurants and, at the height of
the summer, a non-stop nightlife. Some visitors prefer to
travel outside the peak Christmas season when there are
shorter queues for restaurants and the like. Even in winter
the city doesn’t close down, as there are half a million
permanent residents.
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Teatro Colón: The Teatro Colón opened in 1908 is the second
largest performing arts theatre in the southern hemisphere,
second only to the Sydney Opera House in Australia. It was
designed by Italian architect Francisco Tamburri and is an
Italian Renaissance-style building with a seating capacity
of 2,500 (although more people have been squeezed in at a
time). It has hosted many international performers including
Nijinsky, Pavlov, Pavarotti and Domingo. Guided tours take
visitors to the theatre’s workshops, rehearsal rooms and
auditorium and stage.
Address: Avenida 9 de Julio Telephone: (0)11 4378 7132/3
Email: visitas@teatrocolon.org.ar Transport: Subte to Carlos Pellegrini station Opening Time: Monday to Saturday 9am to
4pm, Sunday 11am to 3pm (daily guided tours in English
(11am, 1pm, 3pm) or Spanish) Admission: $12, concessions
available
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